Oak Flooring | Oak

Oak Flooring

We always ensure our oak flooring prices are kept as competitive as possible and all our flooring can be shipped throughout the UK. All the oak flooring we supply is manufactured using the highest quality oak from exclusive, ecological and well managed European sources. The Period House Store can provide you with free samples of our oak flooring and an estimate for the job you require. Just give us a call on the number provided within our flooring pages and we will be more than happy to assist you.

Why choose a solid timber floor? Solid timber has proved itself throughout the centuries as the best material for flooring because it: Will last indefinitely if properly laid and cared for, is resilient and therefore less tiring to the feet than more unyielding materials, provides very good thermal insulation being a low conductor of heat, can be easily renovated after wear or neglect, remains fresh and attractive long after other surfaces (including laminates) have become unserviceable is less dusty and therefore healthier especially for Asthmatics and has superb natural grain and colour and enhances any environment. Preparing to lay a wooden floor New Kiln Dried Oak - This is kiln dried to 10-12% moisture content, ready to be laid into a normal centrally heated house. Reclaimed timbers - These are very well seasoned and may have been laid for many years. Our re-sawn pines are in the main cut from beams and joists from Victorian properties. We carefully stack and store all our timbers in dry covered storage. We only buy and sell quality timber. Do Store timber inside your house at the appropriate living temperature. Take delivery only when other building work is complete and wet work dried out. Allow the timber some acclimatisation time prior to laying. You should take the timber from us at least two weeks prior to laying and either: Stack with plenty of spacers to ensure good airflow. OR Have the floor loose laid ie cut and laid out but not nailed down to be fixed down a couple of weeks later. Run the heating system in new buildings or extensions for at least 10 days prior to laying and ensure plenty of ventilation to disperse dampness drawn out. Continue to run the heating during and after laying. Lag underfloor pipes to prevent localised shrinkage. Do Not Store timber outside or in a damp or open outbuilding where it will absorb moisture. Take timber into a building site environment where plaster and concrete floors are drying out. Take delivery from us until your room is at your living temperature. Use gas or oil space heaters to dry out rooms as these create moisture. Laying your wooden floor All our floors can be laid by a carpenter or competent DIY enthusiast. We work closely with a local joiner who we can refer to you. Here are some laying tips: Laying over a concrete sub-floor Sub-floors must be fully dried out with a maximum moisture content of 5% and must contain an effective damp proof membrane. For a "belt and braces" job lay building paper on the concrete as an additional vapour barrier. Battens should be screwed and countersunk on to the concrete. Centres should measure no more than 450mm. Minimum thickness of battens should be 25mm (20mm is possible if the nailing is driven at 30 degrees). Thermal insulation is improved by laying insulation between battens. Ensure all underfloor pipework is lagged before the floor is laid. This will prevent localised shrinkage in the floor from hot adjacent pipes. Laying on ground floor joists Hardwoods should not be nailed direct to joists over a ventilated ground floor void. Flooring will absorb airborne moisture from the ventilation and will swell. We recommend that plywood of at least 18mm is laid first followed by a sheet vapour barrier (not polythene) and then the hardwood floor. Laying over an existing floor You can lay over an existing floor if it is sound and level. Counter punch any nails and check the floor for high spots before sanding flat if necessary. Lay your new floor at 90 degrees to the existing floor if possible and nail at 300mm intervals. If your new floor must run the same way as the old one, lay plywood of at least 6mm thickness to the old floor before laying the new one. It may save cost if the plywood is laid in strips at 300mm centres. In both cases when you lay the new floor fix with nails of sufficient length to fix through the ply and into the old floor. If your existing floor is laid over a ventilated void ensure that a vapour barrier (not polythene) is sandwiched between the old and new floors. Other laying tips Wide boards are more likely to bow than narrow ones especially if laid in rooms subject to seasonal variations in temperature and humidity. If you are secret nailing t&g wider boards (ie where the width of the board is >5 times the thickness of the board) consider additional fixing by nailing through the face of the plank, plugging the hole with a plug made from the timber. This will give a smooth finish if you do not wish to see the nails. Remember all timber moves between seasonal extremes, expands in summer and shrinks in winter when the heating is on. This is quite normal. Always leave an expansion gap of round the perimeter of the room. In most cases the gap will be covered by the skirting board. Cramp boards before fixing to ensure a tight fit. Nailing When surface nailing use a nail punch to drive below the floor surface. This will assist sanding. T&G floors may be secret nailed using a porta-nailer and driving the nails in at 45 degrees. Use 45mm nails or staples for a typical 20mm thick board. Traditional cut nails (brads) are best for surface nailing use 50-60mm brads for boards up to 25mm thick. Finishing your wooden floor Sanding This stage is perhaps the most critical, so take care and time. Use a drum type commercial sander (hire by the day). Three stages to sanding working from coarse to fine grit - Coarse - to remove dirt, old finish, marks and high spots. Sand at 45 degrees to the direction of the boards then with the grain. - Medium - to remove marks made by coarse sanding - Fine - to achieve final surface, finish with grit 120 or finer. Edges should be sanded with a hand sander and using same process as above Filling - some customers choose to emphasise scars and minor knotty imperfections in the timber. If you wish to do any filling use a resin (eg Lecol clear resin) mixed with sanding dust, and fill prior to the final sand. Remove dust. This can be done by thorough vacuuming and prior to applying any finish wipe the floor with a damp cloth or rag coated in white spirit and allow to dry. Finishing The choice of finishing products is wide and can change the look of the floor considerably. The choice you make should be geared to the amount of wear the floor will get and the look you require. Some tips: Try finishes over a decent area, use board backs before they are laid and offcuts to decide, this is especially important if you are colouring the timber. Remember all timber darkens naturally over time with the effect of light. Whatever you choose, 2-3 coats will give you longer life. Apply all products according to instructions detailed by the manufacturer. Wax Polish Gives a sheen to timber, successive layers building to a patina, gives a good natural finish and feeds the wood. We like Briwax and Fiddes Wax Can be applied to bare timber but first coats should be mixed with white spirit, this aids application and ensures the polish really soaks in. A shellac (alcohol based resin) could also be applied as the base coat to seal the grain, with wax applied on top. The wax goes further and buffs more quickly to a shine Downside with waxing is high maintenance as rubber soled shoes and water will mark the wax A must for antique timbers such as old oak and elm Other timbers, only consider for low traffic areas or areas where rugs will take the majority of the wear. Oils There are lots of different oils on the market which have been specially developed to provide a long-lasting quaility floor finish which is easy to maintain. Oils Sink deep into the grain hardening and protecting the wood and gives a good natural finish which slightly darkens the timber and enhances the grain. Suitable for all areas Varnishes Oil based polyurethanes, water based acrylic varnish are all suitable for floors and are normally available in matt, satin and high gloss. These are very hard wearing and ideal for floors which get lots of wear and where you want easy care. eg Ronseal heavy duty/Commercial use Floor Varnish. Only downside is that this is obviously a less natural finish. Water based lacquers and sealers Suitable for all wear requirements including commercial floors. Downside is these do not give such a natural finish as the oils. Colouring Think carefully before you decide to colour your floor. Any newly machined wood eg our new oak or our cut pines will age and darken naturally. They darken considerably in the first year, especially if in an area where there is plenty of sunlight. Stains may easily wear off poorly maintained or high wear floors. If you must stain here are some tips! Try a large area first using off cuts and the underside of some boards. Be absolutely certain of the colour and appearance, there is no going back! Use water based stains (except under water based lacquers which require a solvent stain), these soak in more unevenly and therefore look more natural. Once the staining is completed a finishing product should be applied. Check suitability for application over stain. Maintenance of wooden floors Dust and grit should be removed on a regular basis using a vacuum cleaner, soft broom or other dry cleaning method. If wood floors are in kitchens then vacuum as above then wipe over with a damp mop. The amount of moisture on the floor should be kept to a minimum by ensuring mops and cloths are only lightly dampened. Spillages - refer to floor finish manufacturers advice. For varnished floors maintain as above. Ronseal make a sheen reviver and cleaner.